The Eternal City
Italy is a spectacular country to visit and Rome was our most favorite place. Every day there was non-stop, tons of walking, immensely memorable, and amazing in every respect. Day two was no exception. After a first day focused on Ancient Rome, we delved deep into Catholic Rome and Vatican City. Come along on our whirlwind adventure through art history, religion, and wonder in the Eternal City.
An Italian Breakfast
Awakening our first morning in room, I went out to the front desk to request breakfast. Since our hotel only had six rooms, breakfast was carted in and placed on the table in the room. It consisted of two glasses of blood orange juice, a teapot full of breakfast tea, a basket of breads and cornetti (croissants) with assorted jams and butter, a selection of fruit yogurt including ananas (pineapple), milk and corn flakes. We ate well and then set off for the Vatican. Still sleepy, Michael took an apple cornetto to go since he had barely eaten in the room and we had reservations at 10:30 am for the Vatican Museums.
Crossing the Tiber
After consulting the map, we set off down the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, heading Northwest toward the Tiber River. Crossing the river, we saw Castel Sant’Angelo and then caught our first glimpse of the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica. Following along the Vatican City wall, we made our way around to the Vatican Museum entrance and joined the queue for reservations.
The Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel
Massive and expansive do not even begin to describe the collection of the Vatican Museums. Ranging from ancient times to modern-day art, there is something for every one. The museum runs in roughly chronological order, starting with Greek and Roman sculptures which make way to halls of tapestries and maps before reaching the Renaissance and the highlights of the museum: the Raphael Rooms and the Sistine Chapel. Below are some of the photos from our journey through the museum. The Sistine Chapel is not allowed to be photographed so here’s an awesome virtual tour courtesy of the Vatican. It really is spectacular! Michael fell asleep early on and awoke in the Sistine Chapel which allowed us to linger and enjoy some of the more intriguing art. It’s definitely a huge amount to take in but well worth the time. At times very crowded, we jostled our way through room after hallway after atrium after room full of art. Eventually, we walked through the doorway to the awe-inspiring Sistine Chapel. Magnificent beyond all description, we marveled at the breathtaking ceiling frescos, chronicling familiar Biblical stories from Creation to the Flood to Moses. Along the walls are scenes from the life of Christ with the Last Judgement on the far wall. Every so often, the security staff claps and shouts “silenzio” in an effort to maintain quiet in a sea of tourists. Speechless in the presence of such masterpieces, most everyone is already in a state of reverent awe despite the throng.
Ancient Sculptures, Mosaics, and Some lovely Architecture
Hall of Tapestries
Hall of Maps
Raphael Rooms
Modern Art, Church artifacts, and some lovely garden views
Exit through the Gift Shop and Lunch on the Go
Hearts and minds filled with the exquisite art we’d taken in, we found ourselves in the Musei Vaticani store. Surrounded by mementos and religious items, we selected a few rosaries and crucifixes to take with us to the next day’s papal audience to be blessed by the pope and given to our Catholic relatives. By this time, it was lunchtime and we still wanted to see St. Peter’s prior to Jason’s 3pm Scavi Tour. In order to maximize our touring, we grabbed a couple of slices of pizza to go along with some sodas. I had just traditional cheese which I shared with Michael coupled with a Lemon Fanta while Jason went with prosciutto and mozzarella and an Orange Fanta. Sodas are so much tastier in Italy. They use real sugar and the fruit flavored ones are actually made with real fruit juice. Such a difference from American corn syrup and artificial flavor infused offerings. The real stuff just tastes better.
The Jubilee of Mercy
Pope Francis declared a Year of Mercy, running from December 8, 2015 (the Solemnity of the Immaculate Conception of Mary) until November 20, 2016 (the Solemnity of Our Lord Jesus Christ King of the Universe.)As part of this celebration, the Holy Door at St. Peter’s Basilica was opened. Most of the time, this door is sealed shut but is opened in Jubilee years for pilgrims to walk through.
“I have decided to announce an Extraordinary Jubilee which has at its center the mercy of God. It will be a Holy Year of Mercy. We want to live in the light of the word of the Lord: “Be merciful, even as your Father is merciful” (cf. Lk 6:36). And this especially applies to confessors! So much mercy!” – Pope Francis, upon the announcement of the Extraordinary Jubilee of Mercy
“We need constantly to contemplate the mystery of mercy. It is a wellspring of joy, serenity, and peace. Our salvation depends on it. Mercy: the word reveals the very mystery of the Most Holy Trinity. Mercy: the ultimate and supreme act by which God comes to meet us. Mercy: the fundamental law that dwells in the heart of every person who looks sincerely into the eyes of his brothers and sisters on the path of life. Mercy: the bridge that connects God and man, opening our hearts to the hope of bein loved forever despite our sinfulness. Anyone who enters the Door of Mercy will experience the love of God who consoles, pardons, and instils hope.” – Pope Francis, Bull of Indiction “Misericordiae Vultus”, 2-3
This is a beautiful continuation of themes from the papacies of his two predecessors. St. John Paul II beatified and canonized St. Faustina whose visions and writings about Divine Mercy deeply impacted him. In fact, his second encyclical, Dives in Misericordia (The Father of Mercies and God of All Comfort) was devoted to this theme of Divine Mercy. Pope Benedict XVI expanded on this topic and dwelt on it as well. His first encyclical, Deus Caritas Est (On Christian Love- God is Love) focused on this aspect of God from the source of God’s Mercy- Love Himself.
“God, who is rich in mercy, out of the great love with which he loved us, even when we were dead through our trespasses, made us alive together with Christ.”- Ephesians 2:4-5
During our time in Rome, we’d registered to enter the Holy Door of St. Peter’s as pilgrims. So we headed to the Gardens of Castel Sant’Angelo and picked up our booklet which consisted of reflections, prayers, and scripture to be said and read at several stops along the way. At the outset, there was an initial reflection to collect one’s thoughts and intentions, especially for the various people and situations in need of God’s aid. The second stop was just outside Santa Maria in Traspontina with a reflection on the Blessed Virgin Mary’s maternal love and her role in Christ’s mission of mercy. The third stop was upon entering the colonnade where we prayed the powerful and thought-provoking prayer for the Jubilee.
Lord Jesus Christ,
You have taught us to be merciful like the heavenly Father, and have told us that whoever see You, sees Him. Show us Your face and we will be saved. Your loving gaze freed Zacchaeus and Matthew from being enslaved by money; the adulteress and Magdalene from seeking happiness only in created things; made Peter weep after his betrayal, and assured Paradise to the repentant thief. Let us hear, as if addressed to each one of us, the words that you spoke to the Samaritan woman: “If you knew the gift of God!”
You are the visible face of the invisible Father, of the God who manifests His power above all by forgiveness and mercy: let the Church be your visible face in the world, its Lord, risen and glorified. You willed that your ministers would also be clothed in weakness in order that they may feel compassion for those in ignorance and error: let everyone who approaches them feel sought after, loved, and forgiven by God.
Send Your Spirit and consecrate every one of us with His anointing, so that Your Jubilee of Mercy may be a year of grace from the Lord, and your Church, with renewed enthusiasm, may bring good news to the poor, proclaim liberty to the captives and the oppressed, and restore sight to the blind.
We ask this of You, Lord Jesus, through the intercession of Mary, Mother of Mercy; You Who live and reign with the Father and the Holy Spirit for ever and ever. Amen.
We paused for a moment to take pictures in the Square before moving up the stairs to enter the basilica through the Holy Door itself.
Inside, we made our way through the expansive interior of the largest church in Christendom to the altar and tomb of St. Peter where we said our final prayers: the Apostle’s Creed as well as an Our Father, Hail Mary, and Glory be for the intentions of the Holy Father. Prior to our pilgrimage, we’d made a confession and mass the day before our departure to fulfil the requirements of a good confession and reception of Holy Communion. The remaining standards are being in a state of grace and free from attachment to sin of any kind. These combined made us eligible for the corresponding plenary indulgence associated with the entry through the Holy Door. Before we left the Vatican, we picked up an official certificate commemorating our pilgrimage.
St. Peter’s Basilica
Simply put, it is the largest, grandest, and most spectacular church in the whole world. Immediately, one is awestruck by the immensity of it as well as its beautiful detail. Filled with art by some of the greatest artists of all time, it is a treasure trove of masterpieces. Just as you enter, Michelangelo’s tender and moving Pieta strikes a chord, eliciting deep emotion as you behold Mary’s deep sorrow as she receives the body of her Son. The glass that separates you from this magnificent sculpture cannot diminish its impact; Michelangelo’s mastery shines through. Art at its core is supposed to evoke feeling and the entirety of St. Peter’s speaks to the majesty of God through each of the individual elements as well as its composite whole.
Scavi Tour
Our visit to St. Peter’s was more abbreviated than I would have liked because Jason was going on the Scavi Tour at 3pm. Since they only allow visitors over 15 years old and I had been on my prior trip to Rome with my family when I was 15, it only made sense that he would be the one to go. Underneath the Basilica of St. Peter lies the tomb of St. Peter as well as other excavations. Between 1939 and 1950, digging was done underneath St. Peter’s basilica which uncovered a necropolis (a large ancient burial ground) and this is what the Scavi Tour covers. It takes one back in time to the early Christians, beginning with the 320-350 AD original St. Peter’s basilica built by Constantine and then going further back into history through an ancient Christian cemetery that culminates with the tomb of St. Peter himself. It’s very worthwhile and moving and I would highly recommend it to Rome travelers. It’s easy enough to schedule through an email to the excavations office and tours are readily available in a variety of languages including English. Like the Sistine Chapel, no photos are allowed in the Necropolis but the Vatican has a virtual tour available online for those of you who are interested in “visiting” from the comfort of your own home.
Meanwhile in St. Peter’s Square…
While Jason was on his 1 1/2 hour pilgrimage down to the very site of St. Peter’s burial, Michael and I amused ourselves by exploring St. Peter’s Square. We completed our shopping for religious article souvenirs for our Catholic family to be blessed at the next day’s audience and wandered about the square itself. Michael delighted in the fountains where a pair of Mallard ducks swam and he climbed up and down the steps along the colonnade. Reveling in the expansive open space, he ran up and down the square. So much energy and adorableness in one little boy!
Papal Audience Tickets
Most Wednesdays that the pope is in Rome, he does a general audience that anyone may attend with a free ticket. There are a variety of routes to go about obtaining one, but we opted to go through the Pontifical North American College in Rome which is a seminary for American men studying for the priesthood. It’s located over by the Trevi Fountain and you must pick up your tickets the Tuesday afternoon before your scheduled audience so we trekked across the city to do so. Following their detailed directions, we had no trouble locating the school. We rang the bell and were greeted by a young seminarian who escorted us and another group picking up tickets to the office. There was a brief film and orientation about how the following day would work. Even though the audience wouldn’t begin until 10 am, they suggested arriving at 7 am to have the best chance of getting seats right along the barricade where the pope mobile would pass. The seminarian was especially excited to see Michael since the pope routinely stops for babies to kiss and bless them.
Friend Reunion
There’s something really special about reconnecting with old friends and it’s even more notable when traveling in a foreign country. For as long as I can remember, the S family and my family have been very close so it was so exciting to get to see Matthew while we were in Rome. He had been assisting with his alma mater’s study abroad program for almost two years and so was an excellent tour guide to showcase Rome. Incidentally, Jason had run into him earlier in the day as he searched for the entrance to the Scavi tour. It was particularly impressive that they’d recognized one another since they’d never met previously.
We met up in Piazza Navona and Matthew took us into Sant’Agnese in Agone which houses St. Agnes’ skull. She was martyred as a young girl in the early 4th century on the very site which was then the Stadium of Domitian. Baroque in design, the church is elaborate in every respect. From there, we ventured over to Santa Maria sopra Minerva, the only Gothic church in Rome which is refreshingly beautiful in its simplicity. It houses the body of St. Catherine of Siena although her skull in back in her hometown. It also showcases a less well-known Michelangelo sculpture of Christ carrying the cross. Briefly, because the church was just about to close as we arrived, we stopped into Santi Apostoli. While dedicated to all twelve apostles, it houses the remains of two of the apostles, Ss. James and Philip. There are so many magnificent churches in Rome and we barely scratched the surface of them. Even the less well-known ones have incredible art and each one is different and unique. In addition to the churches, Matthew pointed out Gammarelli’s. Around since 1798, it specializes in clerical garments and is where Pope Francis gets his papal attire, including his zucchetto (the white skullcap he wears.) Apparently, one can venture into the shop and ask for a zucchetto for the Pope. Traditionally, then you take it to a papal audience and attempt to swap it with the pope. Matthew had attempted a few times, without success, to swap with Pope Francis. We were definitely tempted to try this out but decided that we wanted our focus to be on potentially getting a papal blessing for our baby.
Dinner at Abruzzi
Matthew joined us for dinner at Abruzzi which had been recommended by a priest friend who’s been to Rome many, many times. It must be the hangout for priests because we saw many dining collar-clad and recognized the former vocations director for our diocese out and about incognito (i.e. in street clothes.) He was glad to catch up on the life happenings of my sister and especially brother-in-law who was particularly close with him. We had a long leisurely Italian-style dinner and it was wonderful to get to catch up with Matthew. Michael was very excited to sit in a big chair next to Matthew and drink sparkling water out of a real glass and as a result was extraordinarily well behaved for the entirety of dinner. Very quickly, Michael developed a taste for sparkling water and to this day gets very excited for “bubbles” when we have it at the house. We all split an order of bruschetta for an appetizer which had the most amazing fresh tomatoes. on had cannelloni and I had the Rigatoni Carbonara which I enjoyed but Michael really liked. The house wine came by the bottle and we had sparkling water and continued to opt for that over still for the remainder of the trip. . A little sad that we’d missed out on gelato during the day, I ordered a slice of chocolate cake for dessert that wasn’t exactly my cup of tea. We walked back to our hotel and Matthew came along as far as Largo Argentina where we parted ways.
Daily stats:
- Modes of transportation: 1
- Distance walked: 10.2 km = 6.3 miles
- Churches: 4
- Museums: 1
- Piazzas: 3
- Tours: 1
- Holy Doors:1
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